About: Austin Dog Zone

Halloween: A time for candy and costumes for us humans. As much as we may enjoy this holiday, Halloween can be confusing and scary for our canine friends. Have you seen some of those costumes out there? I can’t imagine what they look like to a dog. 🙂 Here are some safety tips and things to consider for Halloween with your dog:

1. Lots of door activity. If your dog is nervous and reactive to the sound of a door bell, this can be a good time to practice and desensitize if you have someone helping you. Have one person pass out the candy and you can practice with your dog. If you are just starting out, you can keep your dog on a leash for this training exercise. Every time the door bell rings and your dog acts appropriately (perhaps a bark and then quickly calms down), he gets something good. Start out several feet away from the door. By the end of the night, he might not even care who is ringing your door bell because he is already ready for that treat! This is an excellent desensitization exercise if done properly.

2. Scary sights and sounds. The door exercise may be too much for your dog and he may feel more comfortable in his own safe space. It is perfectly ok if your dog would rather be in another area happily chewing on a treat/bone instead. Make sure to observe your dog’s comfort level here and crate, or move him if necessary.

Children who are loud and excited in costume may scare your dog. Gauge how your dog responds and act accordingly. If your dog is showing signs of stress, remove him from that situation. If your dog is already nervous around children, this would NOT be a good time to try and socialize him around kids.

3. Costumes for Dogs. If you are dressing up your dog for Halloween, please make sure your dog can still properly see, hear and move comfortably. Other dogs may react poorly when they see dogs in costume. This isn’t out of the norm, so just be aware and observant.

4. Chocolate and other goodies. After the kids bring home their stash, it is very common for dogs to find their way into the candy. Encourage your kids to keep all candy away and properly stored, so your dog cannot access it.

We hope you all have a safe and happy Halloween! We look forward to seeing pictures.

Post Written By: Laura Neiheisel
Austin Dog Zone

Before I start to give tips on how to integrate a new dog, first let me give you certain characteristics to look for when adding a new dog to your household.

Typically, opposite sex, similar size, and similar energy level dogs get along very well. There are examples that show large dogs and small dogs doing well together, two females getting along, and puppies bringing out new life in older dogs, but this isn’t always true. We realize that there are individual cases that break the norm, but as a whole see above.

While thinking about adding a new dog to your house, think about the needs of your existing dogs and members of your family. Ask yourself, “Do I have enough time and resources to properly exercise these dogs individually and train them?” Most people would tell you that having two dogs in the house is very similar to having one dog, however; if you are adding more than that, it becomes a whole new story!

Animals mimic each other, so if there are behaviors and habits you wish to improve upon on an existing dog, do that first before adding a new family member. If your dog is reactive, or fearful of other dogs, please consult a qualified trainer to help you further with this integration process.

The Steps for Proper Integration

1. Meet on neutral territory. Do not bring a new dog home and expect your current dog to readily accept this new animal. While in neutral territory, begin to go on a group walk together. Praise each dog for neutrality, proper interactions (showing interest in the smells and sights of the walk itself and not fixation on the other, butt sniffs, and relaxed body postures). If there is an off leash area that is available, you may try that next if the group walk went well. During the group walk, watch for signs of fixation, stress, or aggression. If these things are happening, wait to let the dogs interact further off leash.

2. Keep calm and cool. Quality interactions frequently have a lot to do with how you are feeling and acting. Your dog depends on you for protection and leadership. If you are stressed and anxious, your dog will be able to tell, as will the new dog.

3. Barriers and crates are your friends. Feed your dogs separately. If your original dog is used to eating in the kitchen, you may keep him in the kitchen, but put the new dog in another room, or crate for feeding time. While you cannot supervise interactions, crate the dogs separately.

4. When adding a new dog, be aware that there is new competition in town! You might notice your easy going dog suddenly showing interest in toys, affection and food like he never did before. For high value items and toys, ALWAYS supervise and remove items if issues arise.

5. After integration successfully happens, continue to take each dog on individual walks and training sessions apart from the others. Ultimately, you want your group to get along well and have harmony in your household. Some dogs get along so well that they strongly bond to the other dog more than they do with the human. To avoid this potential issue, make sure that the main sources of all good things comes directly from you and that you are interacting/training with each dog individually.

If you are still a little hesitant and unsure about this process, Austin Dog Zone is available to help you choose and safely integrate your new family member into your home either by appointment, or phone consultation. We look forward to answering your questions!

Pictured below are my four fur kids. The Cocker mix you see in the photo has a history of leash reactivity, and has a very high prey drive. By using these steps above and seeking help when you need it, you will safely integrate a new member. For tips on how to safely integrate cats into the equation, please email us. 🙂

Post By: Laura Neiheisel

When I was a young, wee little child, my parents purchased a Lhasa Apso. Neither of them had much dog experience, but both caved to the cuteness overload that is a puppy and brought “Missy” home soon after that. I have no memories of this besides seeing the dog in pictures with me. As a toddler at the time, I was probably more interested in what my foot tasted like in all honesty. 🙂

I found the pictures as an adult and later asked about Missy. Missy was in our home for less than a year. Apparently, she bit me when I was reaching into her food bowl one day. My parents blamed the dog and gave her to an elderly woman. Before everyone complains about my parents, I share this story with you because things like this happen a lot and are so preventable.

Let’s start with some very common misconceptions:

1. Breed Stereotypes. “Our first Lab would let you pull on its ears and our kids used to ride him around like a horse.” “My German Shepherd is so great with kids, aren’t all of them that way?” People assume that because the dog is insert any breed here:_____that it will be a certain way because of their past experiences. Are there specific breeds that are better with children as a whole? Absolutely, but there are individuals in every breed that don’t fit the mold. Never assume that a dog will be comfortable around children because of its breed.

2.“Can I pet your dog?” If you ask this question and teach your child to ask this question, this is a great start because most people do not, however; I want to take this a step further. Even if the owner may say yes, it’s important that you learn dog body language to know what the dog is actually saying. The owner might have great intentions and think their dog is comfortable when it might not be.

Things you can do to easily help prevent problems:

• Feed your dog in a separate area in the home—he will probably thank you too.
• Teach your children early how to properly interact with a dog to prevent dog bites. Dogs do not enjoy being petted over their heads. Running and screaming around dogs can and will fuel prey drive in some dogs.
• Contact a trainer to prevent and control toy/object possession in your dog.
• Give your dog a space that is safely away from the children and the outside, noisy world. Even the most kid-friendly dog needs a break sometimes. Crates are great for this purpose.
• Have your children join you during training with your dog when age appropriate. Getting the entire family involved will help educate everyone and encourage your dog to respect your child and vice versa.
• Teach bite inhibition to your puppy early. If you have questions about this, you may contact us.
• Socialize young puppies around children as soon as possible.

Dogs and children can and do live in harmony and it is a beautiful thing! I’m thankful that Missy lived out her life with a wonderful woman and wasn’t put to sleep for something that was not her fault. Not all dogs are that lucky. It all comes down to education and prevention.

Below are more resources for you to learn and study:

• Austin Dog Zone’s post about dog bites and prevention: http://www.austindogzone.com/?p=1316

• Extremely wonderful resource for your children and yourself: go here.

• Great post about dog body language: click here.

As always, if you have questions don’t hesitate to contact us!
*If you’re not in the Austin, TX area and would like to enlist the help of a Certified Pet Dog Trainer, click to *this page* to learn how to choose the very best certified trainer for you and your dog.

Post Written By: Laura Neiheisel

What does a leash-reactive dog look like?

A dog that struggles with leash-reactivity often lunges and/or barks at other dogs while walking on a leash. He may rear up like a horse or begin to anxiously whine at the mere sight of another dog at a distance. His hackles may be raised. Leash-reactive dogs may be fearful of interacting with other canines, hoping their abrasive behavior will scare them away. Others may love greeting and playing with dogs so much that their overwhelming desire for a visit quickly boils over with frustration. The kicker? The same dog almost always gets along well with other dogs as long as s/he is not on leash!

So what gives? Why does being on-leash take my dog from mild to wild?

First, it will help to understand how dogs greet each other when they are unrestrained by a leash (at a dog park, for example). A socialized dog that uses good dog manners with other canines will approach others at a slight arc, with a relaxed gait/walk, soft eyes and without any stiffness in their tail wag or body. A friendly, appropriate meet and greet occurs when both dogs circle and briefly sniff each others’ faces, then backsides before deciding whether or not to move on or engage in play.

Ever notice what happens when a dog forgoes ‘dog manners’ during a greet? They often run a straight line to another dog, barging in their face, holding their head next to (or above) the other dog’s head. Their body/tail wag is stiff, eyes/expression hard and body weight mostly leaning into their front paws. These behaviors at the very least provoke minor squabbles, but more often than not, set the stage for a fight. (If you recognize these types of behaviors in your dog, they should not be attending off-leash dog parks.)

Now, imagine your dog is about to meet another during a walk. On a sidewalk, dogs have little choice but to approach each other head-on while making prolonged, direct eye contact–two gestures that have a simple translation in a dog’s world: This is a threat. All the while, a perfect storm is brewing: both dogs are likely to have tension running through their leashes, resulting in the tightening of their collars, which creates even more stress and tension! To make matters worse, if a dog is wearing a chain or prong collar, the increasing sensation of pain is only exacerbated as the collar tightens, creating a memorable association of pain/punishment with the presence of another dog. Many people try to diffuse the situation by pulling back or jerking on the leash while telling their dog “It’s OK” or “Be nice, Benji!” But by this stage, it’s too late–the dogs clearly have had enough when they resort to a burst of reactive, aggressive behavior.

Finding Peace On Leash, Finally…

Yes, leash-reactive behavior is not only difficult to deal with, it’s embarrassing and often limits your desire to walk your dog at all (a vicious cycle that will surely keep your dog from better days on leash!) Of course it’s smart to avoid situations in which you know your dog will meet many challenges at once–like walking him during prime-time dog-walking hours, but that doesn’t mean your plan of action should be walking him at 4am, either…

Traffic Ahead? Use a U-Turn!
Rather than deal with a head-on collision with a dog directly approaching, teach your dog to respond to the cue “This way!” to tell her it’s time to go another direction Have a small, tasty treat ready to reward her for following you. Proceed to the next block or cross the street. Be sure to practice this in a quiet, comfortable place (at home) before taking it to the streets!

Build A New, Positive Association (See a Dog? Get Your Favorite Thing!)
My dog, Maggie, used to be reactive to men–and it was worse while she was on-leash. I took Maggie to a coffee shop where we could sit outside and watch people (during moderately busy business hours). Every time a man entered the coffee shop, I gave her a small piece of a delicious treat. Eventually, Maggie started looking around to find a man to look at–she wanted more treats! This same principle can be applied to the presence/visual of dogs and is an extremely effective technique when you use it just prior to your dog’s next meal!

Ask a Friend With a Neutral Dog for Help
A neutral dog is a calm, courteous and friendly dog who doesn’t mind at all it if he doesn’t get to interact with your dog. Ask a friend to walk their neutral dog in and out of your dog’s view while you build a new, positive association. (Consider learning how to do this successfully in one of our available training programs).

Gentle Leaders & Easy Walk Harnesses – Think ‘Training Wheels’ for Better Walks!
Not every dog will accept wearing a head halter, however some do fantastic wearing one (e.g. the “Gentle Leader” by Premier), especially if they are introduced to one slowly (without force) and with reinforcement (plenty of high value treats!) One training tool that helps many dogs is a no-pull harness, especially the “Easy Walk Harness” by Premier. If you can start working with your dog without tension on-leash or pain around their neck, you will notice that a more calm, comfortable dog is less likely to react while on leash.

I hope to have provided you with better insight into your dog’s behavior as well as ideas to begin training with your leash-reactive dog. As a reminder, these suggestions are intended to be a starting off point for you and your dog, but usually are not means to the end of your dog’s reactivity issues. Please contact Austin Dog Zone for any questions you may have about these training techniques and for further assistance in such training endeavors–we are always happy to help!

Written by: Caitlin Lane, CPDT-KA

A puppy is like a new canvas. They are not blank slates due to genetic and environmental factors, but they still will need our help with navigating their world. Everything about them is new, which leaves them extremely impressionable to their experiences within the next several weeks. You may be asking, “When is it ok to safely socialize my puppy? What are the risks? How can I minimize them?” We commend those of you who have asked us these questions because it shows that you are aware of viral diseases and that you care about your new dog. However, we want to ease your fears and concerns by presenting the facts.

The Critical Period

According to Purdue University’s Animal Behavior Clinic, “Puppies go through well-defined developmental stages. Puppy classes are designed to utilize the sociability of young puppies. However, the socialization period of dogs ends at around 12-14 weeks of age. Up to that age, puppies can readily learn not to fear new things, and to develop appropriate social behavior. If this opportunity to shape puppy behavior is missed, the puppies are likely to show behavior disturbances later in life. Therefore, in order to maximize the benefits of puppy classes, puppies should be enrolled at 7-10 weeks of age if possible, the sooner the better.”

Why Socialize?

Behavioral problems are one of the most common reasons that dogs are surrendered to a pound or shelter and it really doesn’t have to be that way with the right training and upbringing. Early socialization is one of the most important things you can do for your puppy to ensure that he grows up to be a confident, well-adjusted adult. It is much easier to prevent behavioral problems with early socialization and training than it is to go back and try to fix them later.

How to Socialize?

Set your puppy up for success! Puppy classes, with a qualified instructor, are worth their weight in gold. Not only is this a way to safely socialize in a controlled environment, but it also informs the new puppy owners how to continue training after the class. You can also host several gatherings at your home with all types of people, especially men and children. Can we say puppy parties? Talk about cuteness overload! Have each guest hand feed treats to your puppy.

Take your dog to human parks, dog-friendly stores, the vet clinic (for fun visits with lots of treats from the vet and staff), and if possible, other homes that are good environments for your puppy. We do not suggest dog parks as a means to socialize your puppy because of the unpredictable environment, both disease wise and dog wise. You never know what the incoming dog’s temperament will be like and this is not the time to hope for the best. One bad experience for a puppy can leave a permanent impression in this young, little brain and the dog park is just not worth that risk.

Minimizing Risk

Unfortunately, there are still some veterinarians as well as some breeders and maybe even a few dog trainers who advise against early socialization for your puppy. The main objection is the need to protect young puppies from disease. Puppies less than 3-4 months old are more easily socialized but they are also more susceptible to diseases such as parvovirus and distemper.

Fortunately, we can minimize that risk by choosing our puppies playmates carefully. We can choose other puppies and adult dogs that we know are healthy and up-to-date on routine veterinary health care such as vaccinations and wormings. We can avoid dog parks and other areas where we cannot control which animals our puppies will encounter.

Health Guidelines:

Purdue University’s Animal Behavior Clinic states, “The puppy classes at Purdue University’s Animal Behavior Clinic start any time between 7 and 14 weeks of age and at least 10 days after initial vaccination for the Distemper/Parvo combination and Bordatella.” The Amer­ican Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the stan­dard of care for puppies to receive such socializa­tion before they are fully vaccinated because the benefits outweigh the risks. We agree with the standards set forth by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior.

We want you to enjoy your new bundle of fur and that delightful puppy breath, but we also want to help you shape a well adjusted canine, safely. Socialization and training should be top priorities before, during, and after you bring your puppy home. We’ll be the first to admit that a new collar, dog bed, toys and everything else that screams, “puppy!” are all fun to buy, but nothing leaves more of a stamp on your dog’s life (and your relationship with that dog), than proper socialization.

As always, please contact us if you have questions! For those that live in Austin and the surrounding areas our dog and puppy class schedule can be seen here.

Post by: Laura Neiheisel and Lorie Huston, DVM

List of Credible Content for Further Reading:
For the full letter by Purdue University, you can go here.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior endorses early socialization for puppies and provides further tips on socializing your puppy correctly. Go here to learn more.

Dr Dunbar’s, Dog Star Daily, Continued Socialization article, go here.

For puppy classes in Austin, you may contact us: laura@austindogzone.com