Meet Blake! He is up for adoption with Austin Pets Alive! We wanted to help spread the word to help get this boy a special home that he truly deserves. He did wonderfully in our Canine Life Skills class and will make someone a wonderful dog! Here is his bio written by his foster mom below. He is good with people, other dogs, and even cats.

Blake LOVES to play with other dogs, has been in several playgroups and had a great time. Very friendly and wants to meet and play with every dog he sees.

Good with cats?

Lives with a cat in his foster home and leaves the cat alone mostly but sometimes if he’s feeling frisky he’ll chase the cat around and try to play with him.

Good with kids?

Has been around a few kids and is very friendly but he bounces around when he’s excited and could easily jump up and knock a small child over. For this reason he should only live with older children.

Details on leash training, crate training, and other training commands known

Not crate trained, has worked a lot on loose leash training with foster and is doing pretty well, has been to classes at Austin Dog Zone, knows sit, down, come, heel, “go to your bed”, and how to wait for his food.

Personal History (How did he or she arrive at the shelter/rescue group?)

Someone set a firework off under Blake when he was small and burned him on his belly, side, and legs. He somehow ended up at Austin Animal Center where he was going to be euthanized until APA saved him. His burns have healed since he has been in foster care and some hair is even starting to grow back!

Describe cuddling behavior/affection level

Blake is VERY affectionate, he’ll stop anything he’s doing for a ear scratch or belly rub. He loves to jump up on the bed and cuddle, even though he’s not supposed to! He’ll give you hugs and kisses. Blake loves being with people more than anything else.

Describe play behavior and favorite toys

Blake likes to work on puzzle toys, he eats all of his meals out of puzzle toys. He likes to toss his squeaky toys around and he loves chewing on bones and bully sticks. He’s good at both playing by himself and with people. Like I said before he really loves playing with other dogs. We’re trying to learn fetch but he doesn’t always want to bring the ball back – he’s getting better, though!

Describe activity level

Blake is an energetic pup and he needs lots of physical and mental exercise. He’ll calm down and chill out with you when he’s tired but he’s always ready to go again at a moment’s notice!

What are the best adjectives to describe this dog?

Outgoing, loving, devoted.

Outgoing: always excited to meet new people and dogs, acts as if everybody is his best friend

Loving: loves to snuggle up next to you

Devoted: ALWAYS there by your side, always excited to see you

What are the dog’s best qualities?

Because of his history you might think Blake would be shy or skittish, but he loves meeting new people and doesn’t seem to be scared of strange things or loud noises. He doesn’t bark very much unless he’s playing with other dogs (or trying to play with cats) and he only chews on his toys, for the most part. He’s also very smart – maybe a little TOO smart sometimes!

What are your favorite things about this dog? Cute behaviors?

Everything about Blake bounces when he walks or runs, from his ears to his tail. He has long puppy legs that he trips over sometimes and when he lies down he just flops, no grace to it at all. Blake likes to go down in the creek and frolic around in the water, which is cute. My favorite things about Blake are that he is such a good cuddler and that he’s always up for anything.

What is/are your favorite physical characteristic(s) of this dog?

Deep brown eyes, beautiful black, tan and white coloring.

What would the ideal home look like for this dog?

I would love for Blake to go to a home with another young dog who likes to play that has room for them to run around. He needs someone who is willing to help him keep training as well as introduce him to mind and body stimulating activities like herding or agility. A couple or family might be good because he really likes being around people all the time. Most importantly, Blake needs someone who can give him all the love and attention he deserves!

To learn more, contact Hannah, h.siemensluthy@gmail.com, or Austin Pets Alive!

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Austin Dog Zone is very passionate about supporting rescue dogs and foster families. All of our group classes are free for foster families.

We hear this question a lot: “Why does my dog only listen to ____(insert any applicable family member)?”

Dogs thrive on consistent, fair leadership. Family members who are present and offer fun, rewarding activities such as daily walks, or food automatically have stars and rainbows coming from their head in a dog’s mind. “This person is valuable to my survival.” However, it doesn’t stop there. You may be the person that feeds the dog daily, but if you are not asking for any behaviors from the dog during this time, Fido may not still listen right away when you ask. Below are several tips on how to improve your canine’s listening skills and engagement with you!

1. Be consistent and take an active role in their lives. Do you feed your dog as soon as you get home? Incorporate some training in the process. Ask your dog to sit, or wait before feeding (after you’ve properly taught what this word means). We are big believers that “Nothing in Life is Free” for our canine friends and that they must work to receive what they want.

2. Be fun! Take the dog on fun trips, or a walk/run. I can guarantee that your dog will absolutely worship the ground you stand on when you come home. Often times after engaging activities, dogs will keep following you from room to room, waiting to see what fun thing you will have next. What a perfect time to practice more listening skills.

3. Go to a training class. If your dog particularly has selective hearing with you, try a positive training class! You are suddenly the source of all good things, whether it be food, or their favorite motivator (toy, etc).

4. Be fair. Do not get angry easily with your dog. A human who is quick to yell, or be violent with their dog only looks unpredictable and scary in a dog’s mind.

5. Have patience and set realistic expectations. Some breeds of dog naturally bond to one person mainly in the home (particularly herding breeds), but that doesn’t mean they have to have selective hearing with you. Try these tips and see what happens!

Post By: Laura Neiheisel

Meet Attila while on a food high in grains, artificial colors and preservatives. Her food was also deficient in high quality protein sources, so she wasn’t thriving on her old diet. She sometimes dug at her skin and itched. If you look closely at her picture, you can see the pink irritation in her skin.

Fast track to now and her skin is already less irritated on a better quality food and the itching has completely stopped! Does your dog have chronic ear infections, itchy/dry skin, or irritated skin? Check the food! If you have questions about this, feel free to contact us to learn more. We are passionate about your dog’s nutrition and truly believe food matters.

Related Posts:
Decoding Pet Food Labels

Recently, we asked on our facebook page if anyone had a specific behavioral or training question. We received some great questions. Lesley M’s chosen question was, “Why does my dog growl and bite at her sister when she sees another dog?”

Your Dog’s Mind When He Passes His Threshold
When a dog becomes fixated on a stimulus, such as another dog on the side of the street, his mind cannot think clearly until that trigger is out of sight, or reach. You might see it in his body. He becomes incredibly tense and focused, like a ticking time bomb. He no longer listens or even hears you. And if he can’t get to what is bothering him, the slightest touch from you (and sometimes even your presence), or another family pet within reach, can be on the receiving end of that pent up tension and frustration. The dog sometimes redirects this in the form of aggression towards a handler, or in this case another family dog.

What Your Dog Isn’t Thinking
Unfortunately, our human brains are bewilderedly thinking, can’t my dog see that that is her sibling, or MY arm he’s biting?! The answer is, no, not at that point. Your dog’s adrenaline and stress responses are off the charts and the best thing you could possibly do is remove him from the situation as safely and quickly as you can.

What Training Can Do
The goal of training a dog like this is that we slowly desensitize the dog, while rewarding calm and casual behaviors. The dog gets what he wants, which may be more space away from his trigger initially, or a high value treat, or toy while learning alternative behaviors that we want. Ultimately, this also involves a more positive association with the stimulus that once triggered aggression. Example of a goal: casually walking by another dog while out on walks.

Effective training cannot happen when a dog is past its personal threshold, or breaking point. That should be called “damage control.” Physical corrections are also ineffective. Physical corrections before and particularly AFTER the dog responds in a way that we do not want (lunging, barking, biting) simply says, “Yes, keep that up, that object IS harmful and worth your reaction.” It may at first stop the dog, suppress the negative reaction, or at worst make the dog even more reactive. It simply does not allow the dog to see this trigger object in a new light, but continually reinforces his bad behavior.

If you have questions, or need help, please contact us.

Related Posts:
“My Dog Would Never Bite..”
How to Properly Break up a Dog Fight
Help Your Leash Reactive Dog Find Peace on Leash

Written By: Laura Neiheisel

Learn why and how to use hand targeting with your dog

Got something to say to your dog? Let your hands do the talking!

“Touch” is a targeting skill that occurs when a dog moves from wherever they are to a specific area (your hand). “Touch” is marked by the dog firmly pressing the end of their muzzle to the flat, open palm of the person that engages with them.

Most every dog can learn and perform “Touch” with ease. Your dog needn’t be in an advanced obedience class to learn it, in fact, puppies often pick up on this skill in a matter of seconds. Shy dogs, hyper dogs, goofy dogs, you name it, they can all acquire this skill. The reason it works well because we are taking advantage of every dog’s natural desire to explore, experiment and pursue new opportunities; every time a dog does “Touch,” they are being presented an opportunity for something they perceive rewarding from their person.

All you need to teach Touch is an outstretched hand and several small bits of treats or tasty kibble (however, I recommend using high value treats that follow the Three S rule: Small, Soft & Stinky!) Always keep the treats in the hand opposite of the Touch hand. When your dog approaches your hand and noses the end of it, happily say “Yes” and immediately give them a single treat. Repeat this several times, moving your hand placement from side to side each time, or by walking away from your dog in order to spark their interest. Many dogs cannot resist a good game of chase or tag, so many people find their dogs’ energy and enthusiasm to touch the hand target increases faster this way.

There are many different uses for hand targeting, but here are some of the best:

1) To call your dog close to you, or briefly “check in” with you when they are off-leash

2) When puppies and small dogs jump up, have them target your hand away from your body and lower to the ground (to redirect and reinforce all four paws on the floor).

3) A helpful tool when training leash walking and heeling; your hand is a point of reference for your dog to follow until these skills become more consistent and reliable.

4) To promote positive associations with the presence of hands–an especially useful tool in raising puppies and shy dogs to feel more confident and safe as new people outstretch their hands to greet the dog.

5) To redirect, interrupt or distract your dog from doing unwanted behavior, such as hard staring or barking at other dogs.

Hand targeting–just like sit, stay or fetch–should be a job or task for your dog to complete in order to receive something positive and valuable to them. Be sure to offer your dog a reward at a value that matches the level of difficulty within the context it was used so the skill remains strong and reliable. In other words, when your dog engages in hand targeting with several distractions and temptations present, be sure to provide a reward that is of high value to your dog in that occasion. When your dog can perform Touch comfortably without many distractions, it’s better to give lower value rewards or only reward for the very best responses (i.e. the fastest).

Have questions? Feel free to contact us.

Written by: Caitlin Lane, CPDT-KA

The Number One Reason People Are Afraid to Train Their Dogs

So, if you’ve been following our Facebook page, you know I recently adopted an 8 year old Golden Retriever. He’s a handsome boy with a delightful personality, but he has little to no training. I picked him up on Monday, and took him to a pet store Thursday to practice and gather up supplies. He gets overly excited when he sees people and turns into a bucking bronco to be petted. People think he is very cute (which he is), but he’s spoiled and thinks everyone should be his friend. I’m actually having to tell people more than anything to NOT pet him because they give in to his cuteness before he is calm.

Here’s what happened:

#Incident Number 1: We walk into the pet store and an elderly woman with her small dog quickly spot us. She immediately gave us a dirty look and said, “Well, that’s a rambuctious dog you have there.” She then tried to avoid us at all costs. Rocky hadn’t even done anything except walk through the door with me.

#Incident Number 2: I overheard a woman checking out with a store worker that she hopes her Golden puppy does not behave that way in the future because my dog had “..so much energy.” Quick Lesson: Dogs are not robots. You purchased a working breed, who tends to have energy. Good luck!

Rocky was nervous and excited. He began to calm down after a few minutes of practicing commands and walking through the store. I was really pleased with how he did overall. However, here was something that kept going through my brain, how is one supposed to practice when they feel that much judgement from others in public? No wonder people isolate dogs that need work and training! People think their dog’s behavior reflects on who they are. That’s enough pressure to make some people not even try, don’t you think?

So, this post is for any of you who have felt this way. This applies to those of you who own breeds who are automatically discriminated against because of breed stereotypes too. Please don’t let it discourage you from continuing to train your dog. Training takes a lot of practice and hard work. You’re going to have rough days, embarrassing moments, and also moments of success! Those victories make it worth it.

Know this, when you are working with us, our job is to not judge you because of your dog’s behavior. Our job is to help. I think judgement may be the number one reason people are afraid to train their dogs. What do you think?

Post By: Laura Neiheisel

Halloween: A time for candy and costumes for us humans. As much as we may enjoy this holiday, Halloween can be confusing and scary for our canine friends. Have you seen some of those costumes out there? I can’t imagine what they look like to a dog. Here are some safety tips and things to consider for Halloween with your dog:

1. Lots of door activity. If your dog is nervous and reactive to the sound of a door bell, this can be a good time to practice and desensitize if you have someone helping you. Have one person pass out the candy and you can practice with your dog. If you are just starting out, you can keep your dog on a leash for this training exercise. Every time the door bell rings and your dog acts appropriately (perhaps a bark and then quickly calms down), he gets something good. Start out several feet away from the door. By the end of the night, he might not even care who is ringing your door bell because he is already ready for that treat! This is an excellent desensitization exercise if done properly.

2. Scary sights and sounds. The door exercise may be too much for your dog and he may feel more comfortable in his own safe space. It is perfectly ok if your dog would rather be in another area happily chewing on a treat/bone instead. Make sure to observe your dog’s comfort level here and crate, or move him if necessary.

Children who are loud and excited in costume may scare your dog. Gauge how your dog responds and act accordingly. If your dog is showing signs of stress, remove him from that situation. If your dog is already nervous around children, this would NOT be a good time to try and socialize him around kids.

3. Costumes for Dogs. If you are dressing up your dog for Halloween, please make sure your dog can still properly see, hear and move comfortably. Other dogs may react poorly when they see dogs in costume. This isn’t out of the norm, so just be aware and observant.

4. Chocolate and other goodies. After the kids bring home their stash, it is very common for dogs to find their way into the candy. Encourage your kids to keep all candy away and properly stored, so your dog cannot access it.

We hope you all have a safe and happy Halloween! We look forward to seeing pictures.

Post Written By: Laura Neiheisel
Austin Dog Zone

Before I start to give tips on how to integrate a new dog, first let me give you certain characteristics to look for when adding a new dog to your household.

Typically, opposite sex, similar size, and similar energy level dogs get along very well. There are examples that show large dogs and small dogs doing well together, two females getting along, and puppies bringing out new life in older dogs, but this isn’t always true. We realize that there are individual cases that break the norm, but as a whole see above.

While thinking about adding a new dog to your house, think about the needs of your existing dogs and members of your family. Ask yourself, “Do I have enough time and resources to properly exercise these dogs individually and train them?” Most people would tell you that having two dogs in the house is very similar to having one dog, however; if you are adding more than that, it becomes a whole new story!

Animals mimic each other, so if there are behaviors and habits you wish to improve upon on an existing dog, do that first before adding a new family member. If your dog is reactive, or fearful of other dogs, please consult a qualified trainer to help you further with this integration process.

The Steps for Proper Integration

1. Meet on neutral territory. Do not bring a new dog home and expect your current dog to readily accept this new animal. While in neutral territory, begin to go on a group walk together. Praise each dog for neutrality, proper interactions (showing interest in the smells and sights of the walk itself and not fixation on the other, butt sniffs, and relaxed body postures). If there is an off leash area that is available, you may try that next if the group walk went well. During the group walk, watch for signs of fixation, stress, or aggression. If these things are happening, wait to let the dogs interact further off leash.

2. Keep calm and cool. Quality interactions frequently have a lot to do with how you are feeling and acting. Your dog depends on you for protection and leadership. If you are stressed and anxious, your dog will be able to tell, as will the new dog.

3. Barriers and crates are your friends. Feed your dogs separately. If your original dog is used to eating in the kitchen, you may keep him in the kitchen, but put the new dog in another room, or crate for feeding time. While you cannot supervise interactions, crate the dogs separately.

4. When adding a new dog, be aware that there is new competition in town! You might notice your easy going dog suddenly showing interest in toys, affection and food like he never did before. For high value items and toys, ALWAYS supervise and remove items if issues arise.

5. After integration successfully happens, continue to take each dog on individual walks and training sessions apart from the others. Ultimately, you want your group to get along well and have harmony in your household. Some dogs get along so well that they strongly bond to the other dog more than they do with the human. To avoid this potential issue, make sure that the main sources of all good things comes directly from you and that you are interacting/training with each dog individually.

If you are still a little hesitant and unsure about this process, Austin Dog Zone is available to help you choose and safely integrate your new family member into your home either by appointment, or phone consultation. We look forward to answering your questions!

Pictured below are my four fur kids. The Cocker mix you see in the photo has a history of leash reactivity, and has a very high prey drive. By using these steps above and seeking help when you need it, you will safely integrate a new member. For tips on how to safely integrate cats into the equation, please email us.

Post By: Laura Neiheisel

When I was a young, wee little child, my parents purchased a Lhasa Apso. Neither of them had much dog experience, but both caved to the cuteness overload that is a puppy and brought “Missy” home soon after that. I have no memories of this besides seeing the dog in pictures with me. As a toddler at the time, I was probably more interested in what my foot tasted like in all honesty.

I found the pictures as an adult and later asked about Missy. Missy was in our home for less than a year. Apparently, she bit me when I was reaching into her food bowl one day. My parents blamed the dog and gave her to an elderly woman. Before everyone complains about my parents, I share this story with you because things like this happen a lot and are so preventable.

Let’s start with some very common misconceptions:

1. Breed Stereotypes. “Our first Lab would let you pull on its ears and our kids used to ride him around like a horse.” “My German Shepherd is so great with kids, aren’t all of them that way?” People assume that because the dog is insert any breed here:_____that it will be a certain way because of their past experiences. Are there specific breeds that are better with children as a whole? Absolutely, but there are individuals in every breed that don’t fit the mold. Never assume that a dog will be comfortable around children because of its breed.

2.“Can I pet your dog?” If you ask this question and teach your child to ask this question, this is a great start because most people do not, however; I want to take this a step further. Even if the owner may say yes, it’s important that you learn dog body language to know what the dog is actually saying. The owner might have great intentions and think their dog is comfortable when it might not be.

Things you can do to easily help prevent problems:

• Feed your dog in a separate area in the home—he will probably thank you too.
• Teach your children early how to properly interact with a dog to prevent dog bites. Dogs do not enjoy being petted over their heads. Running and screaming around dogs can and will fuel prey drive in some dogs.
• Contact a trainer to prevent and control toy/object possession in your dog.
• Give your dog a space that is safely away from the children and the outside, noisy world. Even the most kid-friendly dog needs a break sometimes.
• Have your children join you during training classes with your dog. Getting the entire family involved will help educate everyone and encourage your dog to respect your child.
• Teach bite inhibition to your puppy early. If you have questions about this, you may contact us.
• Socialize young puppies around children as soon as possible.

Dogs and children can and do live in harmony and it is a beautiful thing! I’m thankful that Missy lived out her life with a wonderful woman and wasn’t put to sleep for something that was not her fault. Not all dogs are that lucky. It all comes down to education and prevention.

Below are more resources for you to learn and study:

• Austin Dog Zone’s post about dog bites and prevention: http://www.austindogzone.com/?p=1316

• Extremely wonderful resource for your children and yourself: go here.

• Great post about dog body language: click here.

As always, if you have questions don’t hesitate to contact us!
*If you’re not in the Austin, TX area and would like to enlist the help of a Certified Pet Dog Trainer, click to *this page* to learn how to choose the very best certified trainer for you and your dog.

Post Written By: Laura Neiheisel

What does a leash-reactive dog look like?

A dog that struggles with leash-reactivity often lunges and/or barks at other dogs while walking on a leash. He may rear up like a horse or begin to anxiously whine at the mere sight of another dog at a distance. His hackles may be raised. Leash-reactive dogs may be fearful of interacting with other canines, hoping their abrasive behavior will scare them away. Others may love greeting and playing with dogs so much that their overwhelming desire for a visit quickly boils over with frustration. The kicker? The same dog almost always gets along well with other dogs as long as s/he is not on leash!

So what gives? Why does being on-leash take my dog from mild to wild?

First, it will help to understand how dogs greet each other when they are unrestrained by a leash (at a dog park, for example). A socialized dog that uses good dog manners with other canines will approach others at a slight arc, with a relaxed gait/walk, soft eyes and without any stiffness in their tail wag or body. A friendly, appropriate meet and greet occurs when both dogs circle and briefly sniff each others’ faces, then backsides before deciding whether or not to move on or engage in play.

Ever notice what happens when a dog forgoes ‘dog manners’ during a greet? They often run a straight line to another dog, barging in their face, holding their head next to (or above) the other dog’s head. Their body/tail wag is stiff, eyes/expression hard and body weight mostly leaning into their front paws. These behaviors at the very least provoke minor squabbles, but more often than not, set the stage for a fight. (If you recognize these types of behaviors in your dog, they should not be attending off-leash dog parks.)

Now, imagine your dog is about to meet another during a walk. On a sidewalk, dogs have little choice but to approach each other head-on while making prolonged, direct eye contact–two gestures that have a simple translation in a dog’s world: This is a threat. All the while, a perfect storm is brewing: both dogs are likely to have tension running through their leashes, resulting in the tightening of their collars, which creates even more stress and tension! To make matters worse, if a dog is wearing a chain or prong collar, the increasing sensation of pain is only exacerbated as the collar tightens, creating a memorable association of pain/punishment with the presence of another dog. Many people try to diffuse the situation by pulling back or jerking on the leash while telling their dog “It’s OK” or “Be nice, Benji!” But by this stage, it’s too late–the dogs clearly have had enough when they resort to a burst of reactive, aggressive behavior.

Finding Peace On Leash, Finally…

Yes, leash-reactive behavior is not only difficult to deal with, it’s embarrassing and often limits your desire to walk your dog at all (a vicious cycle that will surely keep your dog from better days on leash!) Of course it’s smart to avoid situations in which you know your dog will meet many challenges at once–like walking him during prime-time dog-walking hours, but that doesn’t mean your plan of action should be walking him at 4am, either…

Traffic Ahead? Use a U-Turn!
Rather than deal with a head-on collision with a dog directly approaching, teach your dog to respond to the cue “This way!” to tell her it’s time to go another direction Have a small, tasty treat ready to reward her for following you. Proceed to the next block or cross the street. Be sure to practice this in a quiet, comfortable place (at home) before taking it to the streets!

Build A New, Positive Association (See a Dog? Get Your Favorite Thing!)
My dog, Maggie, used to be reactive to men–and it was worse while she was on-leash. I took Maggie to a coffee shop where we could sit outside and watch people (during moderately busy business hours). Every time a man entered the coffee shop, I gave her a small piece of a delicious treat. Eventually, Maggie started looking around to find a man to look at–she wanted more treats! This same principle can be applied to the presence/visual of dogs and is an extremely effective technique when you use it just prior to your dog’s next meal!

Ask a Friend With a Neutral Dog for Help
A neutral dog is a calm, courteous and friendly dog who doesn’t mind at all it if he doesn’t get to interact with your dog. Ask a friend to walk their neutral dog in and out of your dog’s view while you build a new, positive association. (Consider learning how to do this successfully in one of our available training programs).

Gentle Leaders & Easy Walk Harnesses – Think ‘Training Wheels’ for Better Walks!
Not every dog will accept wearing a head halter, however some do fantastic wearing one (e.g. the “Gentle Leader” by Premier), especially if they are introduced to one slowly (without force) and with reinforcement (plenty of high value treats!) One training tool that helps many dogs is a no-pull harness, especially the “Easy Walk Harness” by Premier. If you can start working with your dog without tension on-leash or pain around their neck, you will notice that a more calm, comfortable dog is less likely to react while on leash.

I hope to have provided you with better insight into your dog’s behavior as well as ideas to begin training with your leash-reactive dog. As a reminder, these suggestions are intended to be a starting off point for you and your dog, but usually are not means to the end of your dog’s reactivity issues. Please contact Austin Dog Zone for any questions you may have about these training techniques and for further assistance in such training endeavors–we are always happy to help!

Written by: Caitlin Lane, CPDT-KA